e sell it – tools and auto-care tips and tricks

Because fuel systems and access points are so varied, it is impractical to list all of the applications. Always refer to a reliable shop manual, or the car manufacturer for the recommended test procedure and access points.

1. Disconnect fuel pump at rear body connector (electrical). Start engine and run engine until it stalls. Crank starter for 3 seconds to remove remaining fuel from fuel lines. Reconnect rear body connector. 2. Connect Fuel Pressure Gauge to fuel pressure fitting on fuel rail. 3. Reconnect fuel pump. 4. With gauge installed at fuel rail connector, turn ignition on. With ignition on and engine off, pressure should read within specifications. 5. Start engine. Pressure should drop 3-10 psi.

FUEL PRESSURE TESTS FOR FORD (TYPICAL)

CAUTION: High fuel pressure may be present in fuel lines and component parts. Relieve pressure before attempting to open system for testing or component replacement. DO NOT allow fuel to run onto engine or electrical parts or allow an open flame in area while testing fuel system components.

1. On 2.2L & 2.2L Turbo models, relieve fuel line pressure by disconnecting fuel pump relay and starting engine. After engine stalls, turn ignition off. Reconnect fuel pump relay. 2. On all other models, remove fuel tank cap. Using Fuel Pressure Gauge, release pressure from system at pressure relief valve (Schrader valve) on fuel injection manifold rail. 3. The fuel pump may be activated by grounding the fuel pump lead at the SELF-TEST connector. Use a jumper lead and ground the “FP” terminal with ignition on. This activates the fuel pump. CAUTION: Inspect fuel system for leaks or damage before testing fuel pump.

1. Disconnect wiring at inertia switch. Inertia switch is located behind trim panel in right rear side of cargo area on Sable and Taurus station wagons and behind trim panel on left side of trunk on all other models. Crank engine for at least 15 seconds to reduce system fuel pressure. 2. Disconnect fuel supply line at throttle body. Install in-Line Adaptor and fuel Pressure gauge at fuel filter. Reconnect inertia switch and start engine. Check fuel pressure at idle and when accelerating engine. Pressure should remain stable through entire period of acceleration. 3. If gauge readings are correct, disconnect inertia switch. Crank engine for 15 seconds to reduce fuel pressure. Remove gauge and in-line adaptor. Install original fuel line and connect inertia switch. Start engine and check for fuel leaks.

High fuel pressure may be present in fuel lines and component parts. Relieve pressure before attempting to open system for testing or component replacement. DO NOT allow fuel to run onto engine or electrical parts while testing fuel system components.

1. Release fuel pressure. Disconnect 5/16″ fuel supply hose. Connect fuel system pressure Gauge between fuel supply hose and engine fuel line. 2. Turn ignition on. Activate fuel pump. If fuel pump pressure is at specification, fuel system is functioning properly. 3. If fuel pressure is not to specification, record pressure. Install fuel pressure gauge in fuel supply line at rear of vehicle between fuel tank and fuel filter. 4. Activate fuel pump. Record pressure reading. If fuel pressure is 5 psi higher than the first pressure reading, replace fuel filter. 5. If no change in pressure reading is observed, gently squeeze fuel return hose. If fuel pressure increases, replace fuel pressure regulator. If no change in fuel pressure is observed, problem is plugged fuel pump filter sock or defective fuel pump. 6. If fuel pressure is more than specification, remove fuel return hose at rear of vehicle. Connect an extension hose to return hose. Place hose in an approved container with at least a 2 gallon capacity. 7. Activate fuel pump. If fuel pressure is now within specification, check in-tank return fuel hose for kinking. Replace fuel tank assembly if in-tank reservoir check valve or aspirator jet is plugged. 8. If fuel pressure is still more than specification, remove fuel return hose from throttle body. Connect a substitute hose to throttle body return nipple. Place other end of hose in an approved container. 9. Activate fuel pump. If fuel pressure is at specification, check for a restricted fuel return line between throttlebody and fuel tank. If no change was observed, replace fuel pressure regulator. NOTE: Perform fuel pump test with fuel tank at least half full. Before disconnecting a fuel line during testing, repeat fuel pressure release procedure.

1. Release fuel pressure. Remove cap from service valve on fuel rail. Connect fuel system pressure Gauge to service valve. 3. If fuel pressure is not to specification, record pressure and remove gauge. Activate pump. Ensure no fuel leaks from service valve. Install cap on service valve. 4. If fuel pressure is not to specification, install pressure gauge in fuel supply line between fuel tank and fuel filter at rear of vehicle. Activate fuel pump. 5. Record pressure reading. If fuel pressure is 5 psi higher than the first pressure reading, replace fuel filter. If no change in pressure reading is observed, gently squeeze fuel return hose. 6. If fuel pressure increases, replace fuel pressure regulator. If no change in fuel pressure is observed, problem is plugged fuel pump filter sock or defective fuel pump. 7. If fuel pressure is more than specification, remove fuel return hose at rear of vehicle. Connect an extension hose to return hose. Place hose in an approved container with at least a 2 gallon capacity. 8. Activate fuel pump. If fuel pressure is now within specification, check in-tank return fuel hose for kinking. Replace fuel tank assembly if in-tank reservoir check valve or aspirator jet is plugged. 9. If fuel pressure is still more than specification, remove fuel return hose from pressure regulator. Connect a substitute hose to fuel pressure regulator. Place other end of hose in an approved container. 10. Activate fuel pump. If fuel pressure is at specification, check for a restricted fuel line. If no change was observed, replace fuel pressure regulator. NOTE: Perform fuel pump test with fuel tank at least half full. Before disconnecting a fuel line during testing, repeat fuel pressure release procedure.

1. After relieving fuel pressure connect Fuel Pressure Gauge at 6mm service bolt location. Reconnect negative battery cable. Start engine and note pressure. If vehicle will not start, has spark, and no fuel pressure is evident, inspect fuel pump main relay. 2. Disconnect vacuum hose from pressure regulator and inspect for manifold vacuum. If vacuum is not present, check for restriction in vacuum port or hose. Plug vacuum hose and note fuel gauge reading. Gauge reading should be 36-41 psi. Pressure should have risen slightly when vacuum hose was disconnected from pressure regulator. 3. If pressure is higher than specified, inspect for pinched or clogged fuel return line between fuel rail and fuel tank. If no problem is found in fuel line, replace pressure regulator. 4. If pressure is lower than specified, inspect for plugged fuel filter. If filter is not plugged, lightly pinch off fuel return line. If fuel pressure does not rise, replace fuel pump. If fuel pressure does rise, replace pressure regulator.

FUEL PUMP QUICK TEST   1. Turn ignition on, with engine off. On all except Van, place jumper wire across”+B” and “FP” terminals of engine check connector in engine compartment. On Van, place jumper wire across 2. wire fuel pump check connector (White/Black and Green wires) located under driver’s seat.2. On all models, listen for fuel pump running sound. Feel for pressure in fuel line between filter and fuel rail. Turn ignition off. Remove jumper wire. If fuel pump sound was present and fuel hose showed pressure.

3. If no pressure or fuel pump sound was present, on all except Van, connect a jumper wire from battery sources to “FP” terminal of engine check connector. 4. On all except Van, if fuel pump does not run or no pressure is felt in line, check for defective fuel pump. Check for open circuit between engine check connect and fuel pump or poor fuel pump ground. NOTE: All models use in-tank fuel pump. Fuel pump contains internal relief valve and check valve.5. If fuel pump ran after battery source as connected to “FP” terminal in step 3, check EFI main relay and relating wiring. Also check “EFI” and “IGN”fuses.

NOTE: Before testing fuel pressure, check all fuel delivery and return lines for leaks. 1. Ensure battery is fully charged. Turn ignition off. On all except Pick-up and 4Runner with 3VZ-E, place container or shop towel under cold start injector. Slowly loosen cold start injector union bolt to relieve fuel pressure. Remove union bolt and 2 gaskets. 2. Install fuel pressure gauge to the cold start injector delivery pipe. Wipe off excess fuel. 3. On all except Van, install jumper wire between engine check connector “FP”and”B” pins. On Van, place jumper wire across 2-wire fuel pump check connector (White/Black and Green wires). 4. On all models, turn ignition on, with engine off. Measure fuel pressure. Fuel pressure should be same as regulated pressure. 5. If fuel pressure is high, replace the fuel pressure regulator. If fuel pressure is low, check the following: Fuel hoses and connections, Fuel filter, Fuel pump, Fuel pressure regulator. 6. Remove jumper wire installed in step 3. Start engine and run for 2 minutes. Disconnect vacuum sensing hose from fuel pressure regulator and plug hose end. Fuel pressure regulator is mounted on fuel rail. NOTE: On Celica (3S-GTE), Corolla (4A-GE), MR2, Pick-up, MRunner, and Van it is necessary to allow engine to idle for 2 minutes to stabilize fuel pressure. These models are equipped with a fuel pressure-up system which temporarily increases fuel pressure after a hot start. 7. Measure regulated fuel pressure at idle speed. 8. With engine still idling, reconnect fuel pressure regulator sensing hose. Measure regulated pressure at idle. 9. If regulated pressure was not specified, check vacuum sensing hose fuel pressure regulator. On models so equipped, check fuel pressure-up system. 10. Stop engine. Note fuel pressure. Leave fuel pressure gauge attached to engine for at least 5 minutes. 11. Residual fuel pressure after 5 minutes should be at least 21 psi (1.5 kg/cmý). If pressure is not as specified check for leaking injectors, fuel pressure regulator or bad check valve in fuel pump. 12. Relieve fuel system pressure. Remove fuel pressure gauge. Reconnect cold start injector. Run engine and check for fuel leaks.

1. Remove fuel tank cap. 2. Turn ignition on and listen for fuel pump operating sound for approximately 2 seconds. If there is not sound, check fuse, fuel pump relay, fuel pump and all electrical connections.

1. Remove air cleaner and check for any visible fuel leaks. 2. Push airflow sensor plate down manually. 3. Uniform resistance should be felt throughout travel after slight amount of free travel. No binding should be felt when sensor plate is released. 4. Upward movement of sensor plate should be slow with slight resistance from control piston adjusting lever. No binding should be felt. Push airflow sensor plate down and hold briefly. Slight fuel seepage past control is acceptable.

FUEL

NOTE: Control pressure is measured with the valve open and system pressure is measured with valve closed. 1. Install Fuel Pressure Gauge and Adaptor between the fuel distributor test port and cold start valve. Ensure control lever is in the closed position. Bleed excess air from system by cycling control valve with gauge upside down. 2. Using a jumper wire, connect terminals No. 30 and 87 on fuel pump relay. Open fuel pressure gauge control lever. Fuel pressure should be within specification If fuel pressure is low, perform fuel volume check. If fuel volume is okay, replace fuel pressure regulator. 3. If fuel pressure is above specification, remove return hose from pressure regulator and repeat test. Fuel pressure should be within specification. If okay, check for restricted fuel return line. If pressure is incorrect, replace fuel pressure regulator.

1. Install Fuel Pressure Gauge at fuel supply hose 3-way “T” connector. 2. Turn ignition on. 3. With fuel pump operating, minimum pressure should be within specification. if fuel pressure is incorrect, inspect for restricted fuel lines, defective fuel pump or weak pressure regulator. Author – Tony Heywood Tony Heywood is a ‘Retail Troubleshooter’ with 40 years experience in the retail industry, specialising in e-commerce over the last decade. He has his own consultancy firm and is MD of  ’e sell it’, an on-line store selling tools and auto-care products worldwide. For tools & auto-care products at trade prices, please visit: www.esellit.com Or call: 020 8201 0588 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctqQfd3hH4g

Are you the owner of an older car? If so, damaged threads could be a problem. All professional mechanics can handle the issue for you but heli coil thread repairs can also happen at home. You will need to get a heli coil repair kit and you will simply have to follow a number of steps.

You should get started by purchasing the right equipment for the DIY heli coil thread repair.

Items needed

Use this checklist to identify all the items needed for the repair.

Get the repair kit first because it is the most important piece of equipment. Additionally, you will have to buy or find a two-handed tap wrench, the specified drill bit, a thread gauge, a hammer, a round punch and needle-nosed pliers. The kit itself consists of several components like a drill, stainless steel wire coil, a tap and an installation tool.

Measure the Size of the Old Bolt

The first thing you need to do is measure the size of the original bolt. Use the head of the wrench and match it to the bolt for an accurate measurement. Get your thread gauges set and identify the matching piece. This is it – you have found the correct bolt size. The heli coil kit contains a matching tap. Base the decision on the bolt size that you just figured out. The threads are going to be the same but the size of the new diameter is going to be a bit bigger than the old one.

The Insertion Process

Get the right tap bit and start drilling a hole. If the bolt angle is critical, you may consider using a drill press to make more accurate and precise adjustments.

After drilling the hole, you will need the two-handed tap wrench. Put the tap in the wrench. Place it in the hole you have already drilled and hold it at 90 degrees to the surface. After positioning it correctly, turn the two-handed tap wrench clockwise for half a turn. You need to do that in order to start the thread. Next, turn the wrench anti-clockwise for a third of a turn to break the ribbon of metal. Change the direction and rotate clockwise for half a turn. Finally, to break the swarf, you will have to turn the wrench anti-clockwise once again. Maintain the pattern until the new thread is fully cut.

Time for the Heli Coil Insert

The thread is finally cut and you can now work on to the heli coil insert. Get the thread driver that is found in the heli coil kit and screw the heli coil insert into its end. The angle between the wire and the end of the insert should be 90 degrees. This will form a break-off tab that will keep the insert immobile. The end of the insert should be positioned in the newly threaded hole. You will need just three to four turns, in order to screw it in. Make sure that everything looks perfect before snapping the 90-degree wire off. The easiest way to complete that step involves a hammer.

This is the final step of the heli coil thread repair process. Test fit into the heli coil insert and you will be done.

Author – Tony Heywood

Tony Heywood is a ‘Retail Troubleshooter’ with 40 years experience in the retail industry, specialising in e-commerce over the last decade. He has his own consultancy firm and is MD of  ’e sell it’, an on-line store selling tools and auto-care products worldwide.

For tools & auto-care products at trade prices, please visit: www.esellit.com

Or call: 020 8201 0588

The compression of your car’s engine is a very important characteristic for proper functioning. Poorly sealed cylinders can lead to serious issues that may eventually result in the rebuilding of the engine. Checking the engine’s compression involves an instrument called compression tester.

What is a Compression Tester?

The compression tester checks the valve and rings of the engine and it detects excessive carbon. There are two varieties on the market.

The threaded screw tester is screwed into the spark plug opening.

Alternatively, you can use a hand-held compression tester. If you choose this possibility, you will have to work with another person. Your helper will have to crank the engine while you are performing the test.

The traditional compression tester consists of an indicator dial gauge, a testing tube and a spark plug holder or a rubber tip in the case of a hand-held piece.

According to professionals, threaded screw compression testers provide more accurate readings.

How to Check the Engine’s Compression

The engine manufacturer will provide you with the correct compression reading. You should use it as a guideline while performing the test. Keep in mind there could be variations in compression engine readings recommended by different manufacturers.

You first need to remove the spark plug from the engine cylinder you are about to test. Never attempt removing a spark plug at working temperature because it will lead to severe burns. Locate the distributor cap and pull the centre coil wire. By doing this, you will be preventing the engine from starting but still building compression to perform the test.

Get your spark plug compression tester. Install it in the hole of the spark plug. Hand tightening is usually sufficient to position the tester accurately. Hand-held testers have a rubber tip that has to be pushed into place.

Crank the engine and take the compression tester’s measure. For best results, perform the test a couple of times and calculate the average or choose the test reading that appears most often. Use the manufacturer-supplied information to compare the  results.

Press the release valve to release the compression from your car’s engine. You are done! After you are done testing and reinstalling spark plugs, run the engine to make sure that everything functions properly.

A Few Additional Tips and Considerations

If you own a hand-held compression tester, you may be interested in creating a better seal for more accurate readings. Grease can be used to achieve that goal. Just use your finger to apply a little bit of grease on the rubber tip.

There could be specific compression testing procedures for particular engine models. It may be a good idea to familiarise yourself with the process before getting started. Manufacturers may suggest different methods of creating engine pressure, so make sure that you are informed.

Checking the engine compression is a simple, yet highly beneficial procedure. Every vehicle owner should have a compression tester. Perform the test whenever you experience any problem like the loss of too much oil or a general lack of engine power. Compression testing will help you figure out what the cause of the problem  is.

Author – Tony Heywood

Tony Heywood is a ‘Retail Troubleshooter’ with 40 years experience in the retail industry, specialising in e-commerce over the last decade. He has his own consultancy firm and is MD of  ’e sell it’, an on-line store selling tools and auto-care products worldwide.

For tools & auto-care products at trade prices, please visit: www.esellit.com

Or call: 020 8201 0588

Belts in the car play such an important role but they are rarely considered whenever it is time for maintenance and repairs. Still, paying attention to the belts can ensure the smooth functioning of all the vehicle parts and your safety on the road.

What is a Timing Belt?

The timing belt is the piece that synchronises the functioning of valves and pistons. The camshaft and the crankshaft are connected by it. The lack of perfect synchronisation will make it impossible for the car engine to run smoothly. The timing belt is the one piece responsible for achieving the goal.

The lack of tension will speed up its wearing out. Excessive tightness will damage bearings. When maintaining and repairing your car’s timing belt, you will have to achieve precision for optimal functioning of all parts.

Checking the tension is a monthly necessity. A car timing belt kit can be purchased and used for that purpose. It will save you both time and the money that you will otherwise have to spend on a professional service. When inspecting, make sure that the engine is not running. There is a serious risk of accidents in such instances.

Equipment Needed for Maintenance and Repairs

If you are interested in doing vehicle repairs on your own, you will have to invest in the right kind of equipment. The most commonly needed pieces for the maintenance include:

• Torque wrench
• A good screwdriver set
• Socket set
• Combination wrenches
• Jack and jack stands
• Drain pan

Bolts, pins and obviously a new timing belt will be needed, whenever you have to replace the old piece. Keep in mind that the equipment and the specifics of the procedure will very often depend on the vehicle kind and the model. There is no universal solution and you should learn more about the specifics of your car and its engine functioning.

Causes of Problems and What to Look for

If you are used to working on your own car, you have certainly seen the timing belt. Do you, however, know what to look for in order to determine whether it is in good condition or in need of replacement?

Cracks, excessive slack and shredding are all causes of concern. If you notice such signs of aging, you should consider replacing the old piece.

The engine itself gets quite heated during functioning, which will cause natural damage to the timing belt. Other factors that will affect its condition and speed up the damage include oil leaks that could cause belt corrosion, infrequent driving and excessively dry climates that will damage the material that the belt is made of.

You will have to replace the timing belt at least once during your ownership of the vehicle. Routine inspections of its condition will give you an idea about when that might be. Having a car timing belt kit ready beforehand, will only be a convenience for you when the time comes. Taking a look on a monthly basis will prevent you from experiencing problems on the road, while you are away from home.

Author – Tony Heywood

Tony Heywood is a ‘Retail Troubleshooter’ with 40 years experience in the retail industry, specialising in e-commerce over the last decade. He has his own consultancy firm and is MD of  ’e sell it’, an on-line store selling tools and auto-care products worldwide.

For tools & auto-care products at trade prices, please visit: www.esellit.com

Or call: 020 8201 0588